Skin turns dry because oestrogen supports the ceramides, the sebum and the water-holding that seal the outer layer, and all three decline together. Less is held in, more is lost out, and the surface roughens. It is a supply problem, so the answer is putting the supply back daily rather than buying stronger actives.
The outer layer of skin is cells held in a mortar of lipids, and ceramides are most of that mortar. When researchers compared women before menopause, after it, and after it on hormone therapy, the post-menopausal group had fewer ceramides and shorter ones, and the hormone therapy group did not show the change. Blood oestradiol tracked with how much ceramide was present, and treating skin cells with oestradiol in the laboratory raised ceramide production. That is about as direct as this evidence gets.
Oestrogen also supports sebum and hyaluronic acid, which are the oil layer and the water-holding layer. A New Zealand clinical reference lists dryness and itch as likely the most common skin complaint of menopause for exactly this reason: three separate parts of the sealing system are supplied by the same hormone. A review of menopause and skin found oestrogen implicated in water loss through the skin as well as in the loss of dermal collagen.
Then daily life makes it worse in ways nobody flags. Hot showers and foaming washes strip lipids that are already in short supply. Indoor heating pulls water out all evening. The actives that suited oilier skin for twenty years now land on a thinner barrier and sting. Left long enough, ordinary dryness becomes asteatotic eczema, the cracked, crazed-paving pattern usually seen on the shins, which clinical references describe as the end result of increased skin dryness.
The usual causesfewer ceramidesless sebumless water heldhot showers and foaming washesindoor heatingactives that used to suit you